Thank you! It has more functions than Cura and is quite easy to use, but not as powerful as Slic3r in some cases. That’s because the volume of filament extruded is directly proportional to the flow rate, but is proportional to the SQUARE of the diameter. I will dump the Slic3r and think about Slicer3D. I just completed an E-Step calibration on my mini. Thanks for all the feedback so far! Wow. Slicer doesn’t seem to print. I wouldn’t recommend buying it based on that alone, but it’s a nice extra. Like Sebastian says, right click and move to rotate. I didn’t know about the temp window or the layers window. GitHub is home to over 50 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together. Main Differences Between Ultimaker Cura vs Slic3r. 3D printer / slicing GUI built on top of the Uranium framework - Ultimaker/Cura http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84795. Learn Cura, it will serve you well. If you need really precise holes, you should probably print them small and ream them out. That’s not to say it’s the end-all for slicers. Something seems to be missing. I believe this feature is also available now in Cura through a plugin, but to my knowledge it can’t be applied infinitely many times as in S3D. I would like to get the nickle thing to fit, but that might require some x an y stepper motor changes, and I’m not sure I want to do that just yet. Generally, I think Simplify is more “pretty” and has a cleaner layout than Cura. The Ultimaker 3 does not support a wide variety of speciality filament types, whereas the Lulzbot Taz 6 does. I print a brim and make sure that brim is the right thickness. The LulzBot Mini vs. the LulzBot Mini 2: a side-by-side first look - Duration: 4:23. In November of 2017, our friends over at Lulzbot released a major software update to their Slicing software, Cura. They are very easy to cleanly remove and the default options generate enough support without going overboard. This is done by click and hold the right mouse button. Skip to content. Natively open Collada, GLTF, OpenCTM, and PLY formats, to name a few. I have been losing my mind trying to find a plugin to pause at layer. 問題: Fusion 360の3Dプリントダイアログの印刷ユーティリティで「Cura」を選択しても、Cura LulzBot Editionは起動しません。 環境: キュラLulzBotエディション2.6.69 解決策: 印刷ユーティリティに「カスタム」を選択し、C:\\Program Files (x86)\\cura-llavabot 2.6 フォルダ内のcura-lulzbot Maybe Repetier isn’t set up right? What advantages do these different softwares have over Cura? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tlrCpwAV4M&list=PLogLRK5xzNdieu445p2O7wODJpQBVf-Ss&index=15 And it’s consistent, so if I print a bolt and a nut, they thread together fine. It may take a bit for it to generate the full preview, but sometimes you will see something that you want to change before you hit print. otherwise, it ignores any changes. All gists Back to GitHub Sign in Sign up Sign in Sign up {{ message }} Instantly share code, notes, and snippets. I plan on getting a Rasp Pi and running Octoprint. All the slicer settings work together and often times dependent upon each other. One thing I have seen Simplify3D do well is supports. If someone with a mini could post a step-by-step, I’d be very grateful. 9:49. Wir würden dir eher Cura empfehlen, wenn du die beiden Programme in deine engere Wahl gezogen hast. Starts with nozzle cleaning and auto bed leveling. Embed Embed this gist in your website. as in Cura (see Machine settings). cura-lulzbot v3.6.20 - Passed - Package Tests Results - 1.RegistrySnapshot.xml. If you click on the temperature graph, it will enlarge. 3d Printing CURA for Lulzbot Overview - Duration: 9:49. Cura is a simple slicer with basic functions, it’s easy to start with it. Thanks for reminding me. 1 branch 0 tags. I’m sure there are better platforms out there, but I’ve learned a few things about Cura that make it easier to use. Cura slices and prints. Things like hole sizes being off a few thou aren’t really a big deal to me. Will any changes I make still work in Cura? I’ll second that! As Slic3r, it has some anoying bugs which you should know when using it, for example if you need to print thin single walls. I can’t figure out how to follow Triffid’s tuning guide with a mini. devel. What would you like to do? Sorry if I hijacked your thread, but hopefully we can both learn from this. I for one have 3 Lulzbot printers and 2 brand new Ultimaker 3s in my office. IMO, the best option for a Mini is a raspberry Pi running Octoprint. Or slic3r? I used the method Sebastian posted for esteps/flow calibration and am quite happy with the results. Do I need something other than Cura? As the esteps are a FW thing, they are slicer independet. Slicer doesn’t seem to print. Cura LulzBot Edition is a Free Software program that both prepares your files for printing (by converting your model into GCODE), and also allows you to control the operation of your LulzBot 3D printer. There is no best slicer out there, you have to find out which one fits your needs. Created Sep 21, 2019. Sign up. You will get much better prints with the procedure described by Triffid Hunter. It also allows for custom supports, which can be handy. While I believe Slic3r can also be tuned, its more difficult than Cura. Slic3r is a very powerful tool with a lot of features and options, therefore not that easy to get into it. As mentioned above, the “best” slicing software is/will be the one you know the best. What advantages do these different softwares have over Cura? Flexible Filament (and buying a printer from Craig... Dinosaurs on the top, showing the "best results" for the side on the printer bed. I’ll put in a good word for S3D. But if you need something special to squeese the last bit of quality out of your printer, it’s very likely you will find it in Slic3r. If you haven’t hit issues in Cura, keep right on using it. bladerunner. For the flow% and the filament diameter… do you recommend just leaving the flow at 100% once you have the diameter dialed in? T-Rex from the printer bed side - walls and infill separating, Ironed T-Rex on the left, regular 3.2.32 T-Rex on the right. I had pretty good luck with 95 or 96%. I used to have a plugin that I loaded into cura lulzbot edition to pause at a specific layer, now when it resumes, it doesnt touch the previous layer, therefor creating space and layer does not adhere well. But I would like to be able to be able to rotate the 3D without effecting the actual orientation on the print platform. LulzBot Dark theme for Cura. (I'll refer to it as Cura LE. A previous poster suggested fine tuning the E-Steps, but I haven’t figured out how to do that yet. The x-steps and y-steps are typically set very accurately from the factory. This only holds true the second time. You can also shift right click and it will pan your part. I’ll admit I know very little about this, what do I need to complete the picture if I want to try Slic3r? Regarding the Nickle Calibration, I don’t recommend to use this for a flow or esteps calibration. Usually the cura-lulzbot 3.6 program is found in the C:\Program Files (x86)\cura-lulzbot 3.6 folder, depending on the user's option during setup. It was doing 101.5mm when I first tried it. tdaede / lulzbot-cura. They tend not to be as variable as the e-steps figure (which can vary depending on filament type, print speed, and possibly age/condition of the filament). No problem! That can be handy for adjusting things on some prints. My nickel still doesn’t fit the hole, but I have fine tuned the other parameters to what I wanted to see. I’ve had a few times where I had the Control Panel open in Cura and made a change in the settings that didn’t take. In this tutorial, we will look at what Cura is and does, the process of installing Cura 2 onto a PC already running Cura 21.xx, upgrading Lulzbot 3D Printer firmware and finally take a quick look at the new User Interface in Cura 2 Lulzbot Edition. On mine, I found I like to leave the diameter at 2.95 which is what I measured, and change the flow %. Simplify3D is something between Cura and Slic3r. Also, have you figures out in Cura how to rotate the image platform without rotating the actual image on the print platform? However, once your firmware has been updated to 1.1.5.70, GCode files sliced with earlier versions of Cura LE will no longer be compatible and will have to be re-sliced using the latest version of Cura LE. Embed. If your dimensions are off after that, it’s not due to flow rate, then there are other things going on…. I would like to get the nickle thing to fit, but that might require some x an y stepper motor changes, and I’m not sure I want to do that just yet. A previous poster suggested fine tuning the E-Steps, but I haven’t figured out how to do that yet. You can also set a number of options based on the layer you’re on. New to 3D printing, and I was wondering why some people choose to use other software (i.e. Beginner users are advised to use the Quickprint View in Cura. It’s also possible you have binding or some sort of mechanical linkage problem which is throwing off your dimensions, but I’m guessing that would generally only cause an undersized condition. The Ultimaker 3 features two extruders for more versatile printing, whereas the Lulzbot Taz 6 does not. Cura LulzBot Edition is a Free Software program that both prepares your files for printing (by converting your model into GCODE), and also allows you to control the operation of your LulzBot 3D printer. What do you guys use and what would you recommend? What do you guys use and what would you recommend? Beginner users are advised to use the Quickprint View in Cura. Flow %, filament diameter and esteps are working hand in hand. Something seems to be missing. Cura LulzBot Edition is a Free Software program that prepares your files for printing (by converting your 3D model into GCODE), controls the operation, and is the recommended printer host software of your LulzBot 3D printer. I’m using the rpi camera module and some 3D printed cases for it and the pi itself. I have an ancient desktop OSX machine that is still functioning. Example of customizing the supports (see 8:20 mark for removal): The result in extruded volume is the combination of all three. 25 package(s) known. Beide Programme sind gut geeignet, auch wenn Slic3r in diesem Test nicht so gut abgeschnitten hat, wie Cura. It’s also a bit pricey for what it is, IMO, but I do like it and the interface. Here’s another demonstration of the process feature applying to different parts on the print bed rather than a single print: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbQfifnzL4Q&list=PLogLRK5xzNdieu445p2O7wODJpQBVf-Ss&index=9. Cura Lulzbot Edition - The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly I've been using the "Lulzbot" version of Cura for the whole time I've been printing. I’m not sure if it was something I did or didn’t do, but it sucks to have to abort a print because you added a brim and it ignored you. I found this by accident, but it’s actually kind of neat to know. However, in November of 2017, LulzBot released their major update to the older Cura 1 Slicer, called Cura 2 LE (LulzBot Edition). Slicing Software matters in 3D Printing - Cura vs Slic3r NOTE: Post Updated (5 weeks later): I've found parameters to make CURA slicing very consistently successful - mostly thanks to the folks at LulzBot who sell great filament and provide great filament profile/config files for CURA - but also after a bunch of experimentation. Anyone have a printer def for Cura 4 beta. For mine, I printed the Nickle_Calibration stl file a bunch of times. I’ll admit I know very little about this, what do I need to complete the picture if I want to try Slic3r? Download the latest version of Cura LulzBot Edition for the latest features and updated Quickprint material profiles. I found another thread started by bladerunner that guided me towards how to do the E-Steps with Cura. ), The Jimmerness - Adventures in 3D Printing, https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/4466, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749410, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749406, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749413. Cura has nothing to do with them. There are some other programs like Simplify and Slicer that do a better job with some things, but Cura does a very nice job most of the time. I would recommend you to get familiar with your printer (learning by doing) and when you know all the “screws” in Cura, try other slicers. Where did you find the nickle file? Here’s another demonstration of the process feature applying to different parts on the print bed rather than a single print: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbQfifnzL4Q&list=PLogLRK5xzNdieu445p2O7wODJpQBVf-Ss&index=9 For me it’s OK for Slic3r as it’s an open source one-man show, Simplify is another story because it’s not quite cheap…. I was sold, and continued to use S3D when I got my TAZ. Changing the filament diameter and flow percentage may sound the same, but I had vastly different results with the same “percentage” of changes. I used this thickness to slightly change my Z-offset to perfection. Thank guys, I really appreciate the feedback. Cura vs. Other 3D Printing Software. KISSlicer is very special in terms of usage, with a very crowded interface maybe as a result of a long time where it wasn’t longer developed. Software. The full command line for removing cura-lulzbot 3.6 is C:\Program Files (x86)\cura-lulzbot 3.6\Uninstall.exe. I actually prefer it most of the time, makes it easier to thread things into/onto them. In Cura, I think the ease of removal can also be achieved… but not the custom placement of support. M500 stores your tuned values to EEPROM. The latest version features an updated user interface, more slicing options, an updated slicing engine, and better print quality than ever before. Cura 4.0 is a free slicer for 3D print files. Cura LulzBot Edition is a Free Software program that both prepares your files for printing (by converting your model into GCODE), and also allows you to control the operation of your LulzBot 3D printer. That was very helpful. Cura seems to have everything you would need to do your 3D printing. http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter’s_Calibration_Guide#E_Steps_Fine_Tuning Slic3R, Simplify3D, etc)? Make sure the printer is connected to the computer via USB, plugged in, and powered on before launching Cura. Using Blender to take a 2D image into a 3D cutout. I could save my gcode to an SD card but my mini wouldn’t know what to do with it. But be shure to have the flow rate set to 100% or you will fool yourself…. Contribute to eric116/cura-lulzbot-dark development by creating an account on GitHub. Changing the filament diameter and flow percentage may sound the same, but I had vastly different results with the same “percentage” of changes. All the slicer settings work together and often times dependent upon each other. Peaufinez votre modèle 3D avec plus de 400 paramètres différents pour obtenir les meilleurs résultats en matière de découpe et d'impression. 1. Use the “Layers” View Mode to see how it’s going to print the layers, fill, skirt, brim, etc. Not that Slic3r is bad, but if it is “about the same, but different” I don’t want to spend time learning it only to discover it has shortfalls as well. Now move your mouse…, I found the nickle [sic] file on thingiverse. Versions for cura-lulzbot. For e-steps fine tuning, see this guide: Repository Package name Version Category Maintainer(s) Time will see if it has a great come back. I have Slic3r and Repetier Host, but I haven’t been able to get them to work. Cura LulzBot Edition is a Free Software program that both prepares your files for printing (by converting your model into GCODE), and also allows you to control the operation of your LulzBot 3D printer. Powered by Discourse, best viewed with JavaScript enabled, http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter’s_Calibration_Guide#E_Steps_Fine_Tuning, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbQfifnzL4Q&list=PLogLRK5xzNdieu445p2O7wODJpQBVf-Ss&index=9, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tlrCpwAV4M&list=PLogLRK5xzNdieu445p2O7wODJpQBVf-Ss&index=15, http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_User_Manual:_RepRapGCodes. After struggling to get a particular part to print properly, I switched to S3D (bypassing Cura). Also, for Slic3r, what else do I need to load? For example, if I want to view all angles of the 3D image, the only way I know how to do it is actually rotate the 3D orientation of the 3D image. I’ll caveat if you with spending enough time to familiarize yourself with all the settings in Cura can yield equally impressive prints… including removable supports. And really, some of the people that like one over another just like the user interface better. M92 Exxx sets your Esteps. I also want to hear opinions about this from others. G91 changes to relative. It has issues just like every program. The Main Differences Between Ultimaker Cura vs Slic3r are: Ultimaker Cura has two layouts recommended for beginners and custom for more advanced users, whereas Slic3r uses categories and sub-categories to organize its settings. I assume Utimaker is pissed at Lulzbot since the beta had pretty much every 3d printer profile available except the TAZ’s. Downloading plugins from the Ultimaker Marketplace brings in support for many more. The exterior finish of the problematic part was night and day. You upload gcode to the pi using a web interface, and have it go. I don’t know Repetier Host, I’m using Pronterface. Now my nicer, more powerful, computers can sleep, reboot, whatever without messing up the printer. Power on. I think I’ll stick with Cura as you recommend, but will definitely check out the others as my skills progress. It has controls for manually moving the print head around and such, and if you add a camera you can get a live feed and it will generate a timelapse for you as well. December 5, 2019, 4:45am #1. If anyone knows what I should change to get the nickel to fit, please let me know…. The S3D Youtube channel demonstrates some many of the unique features. I’ve learned a LOT. Cura 4.0 was recently released by Ultimaker. The latest version features an updated user interface, more slicing options, an updated slicing engine, and better print quality than ever before. It’s the same like printing a cube and measuring the width of it: You measure a lot of things with this procedures, but not (or not only) flow rate. You have the choice to save the gcode to SD card or use a host software like Pronterface for printing. Dafür, dass die beiden Software Programme kostenlos sind, gibt es nichts zu meckern. Anytime I need to reprint or print something new, I now always close Cura and restart it. This is good information. lso, have you figures out in Cura how to rotate the image platform without rotating the actual image on the print platform? Click again, and it goes back to normal. If you’ve got a problem with x and y dimensions, the first place I would look is your extruder settings: e-steps, possibly z-offset (which can cause bulging on the first layer or two if set too low). For a casual user, maybe not… but definitely mitigates the frustration level. I have been using Cura since December and have grown to like it. For an advanced user well worth the $150. Cura seems to have everything you would need to do your 3D printing. Unter den kostenlosen Programmen ist Cura unserer Meinung nach … http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_User_Manual:_RepRapGCodes. Ultimaker Cura 4.3 is compatible with even more 3D file formats than before, allowing you to integrate CAD software, 3D scanning software, and 3D modeling software into your workflow with ease. Wordof Bach 277 views. It works great for most things and generally results in good quality prints. Thanks for the tips on Cura. 2. But it has some unique features for example to smooth out start and end point of a perimeter, so it’s also worth a try. I don’t seem to have it on my tumbdrive that came with the printer. The latest version features an updated user interface, more slicing options, an updated slicing engine, and better print quality than ever before. Simplify3D, in my opinion, is the most powerful and feature rich slicing software available. I've been using the "Lulzbot" version of Cura for the whole time I've been printing. If you don’t know how to set the esteps through Repetier Host / Pronterface, have a look here: I’m here to learn so any extra info is always good. After my PC did a download and reboot in the middle of the night, I was definitely more enthused to do this. It uses a different number versioning system than the original Ultimaker Cura. The latest version features an updated user interface, more slicing options, an updated slicing engine, and better print quality than ever before. I made a real simple 5mm x 10mm x 15mm brick I use for a lot of test prints. Cura LulzBot Edition is a Free Software program that both prepares your files for printing (by converting your model into GCODE), and also allows you to control the operation of your LulzBot 3D printer. Do I need something other than Cura? Extrusion seems to be the name of the game for the most part. Learn about enhancements and bug fixes in Cura 4.0 one of the leading slicers for 3d printers. It prints fast (15 minutes maybe) and lets you see where you can improve. If you understand how each setting affects each other and the print, that slicer will benefit you the most. We will be using a LulzBot Mini for this setup, printing our signature Rocktopus using Polylite PLA filament, but you can use this guide to setup the TAZ 5 or TAZ 6 as well. Thanks for asking this question Bladerunner. General. Greetings! I guess I should have mentioned, I have a mini like bladerunner. Using different print process within a single print allow you to vary parameters which are normally constant. Most things will come out well, but sometimes you will hit it’s limitations, for example if it comes to bridging. Wow. The setup is pretty simple, write an image to an SD card, and hook it all up. choco-bot / 1.RegistrySnapshot.xml. Do you mean view rotation? That makes the bottom layer look awesome, and the brim is nice and even. But if your printer is working with Cura, you should be able to connect using the same Port and Baud rate (important!) For a casual user, maybe not… but definitely mitigates the frustration level. Extrusion seems to be the name of the game for the most part. One Cura to rule them all would be so EXCELLENT. Simplify3D, in my opinion, is the most powerful and feature rich slicing software available. If you understand how each setting affects each other and the print, that slicer will benefit you the most. Watch 1 Star 1 Fork 1 here tamarin be happy 1 star 1 fork Star Watch Code; Issues 0; Pull requests 0; Actions; Projects 0; Security; Insights; Dismiss Join GitHub today. Ultimaker Cura est un logiciel d’impression 3D gratuit et convivial, il est actuellement utilisé par des millions d’utilisateurs. When you need more advanced features, look into S3D… IMO, skip Slic3r. BTW thanks so much for all your great work on both versions regardless. Setting your Z-offset will make things a lot better in the long run, and it’s a good place to start as that’s where it all begins. As mentioned above, the “best” slicing software is/will be the one you know the best. Cura LulzBot Edition version 21.08 is now available for download! I started out with Slic3r on my previous printer. Cura LulzBot Edition is a Free Software program that both prepares your files for printing (by converting your model into GCODE), and also allows you to control the operation of your LulzBot 3D printer. The 3 should work as well, but that one is hard to get right now and pre-made SD images probably aren’t ready yet. Fazit SIic3r vs. Cura. (I'll refer to it as Cura LE.) Make changes, look at it under magnification, make adjustments and reprint. I did learn that I need to do a G91 before the G1 E100 F30 command. I changed from 833 to 820.7 and it seems to hit the 100mm extrusion amount very close now. Star 0 Fork 0; Star Code Revisions 1. They use an example of a self-uprighting figurine (weeble-wobble), which requires a higher density of material at the bottom. Will any changes I make still work in Cura? Since 2015, LulzBot 3D printers have been designed around a user experience on 'Cura 1' (it's actually Cura 15.04.6 from Ultimaker). Cura LulzBot Edition version 2.6.66 and above contains firmware standardized for use with all LulzBot Mini 3D Printers, and contains important bug fixes. When you’re done, do a G90 or restart the machine. Also, for Slic3r, what else do I need to load? Basicaly, you don’t need the flow % override if you entered the right diameter and your esteps are set properly. I recommend the Pi2, as it’s a fair bit faster than the original.